'Rotten rock': Climate change altering the face of Canadian mountaineering

The Abbot Pass hut stood for decades in a rugged saddle between two iconic peaks, overlooking the limpid turquoise of Banff National Park's Lake Louise — a destination for alpinists from around the world until the ground melted beneath it and forced its closure.

"In places the ice is gone and there's nothing but rotten rock left. What used to be nice mellow glacier runs are now really crevassed." Early entries describe reliable ramps of firm snow en route to renowned peaks such as Mount Lefroy and Mount Victoria. In the Bugaboos range south of Golden, B.C., a popular col in what may be Canada's most famous climbing area is becoming increasingly inaccessible as it loses snow.

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