, the all-chardonnay wine stands as a contrast to Ruinart’s signature blanc de blancs as the winery embraces unusual vintages for a new style of champagne. Lemonade from lemons, as it were.a short drive east of Paris, is France’s northernmost wine region. It lies just below the 50th parallel latitude, traditionally considered the northern limit of wine growing, though climate change is challenging that boundary.
“The 2015 vintage was unusually dry, and we were discussing how that affected the grapes,” Panaiotis told me in a recent interview over Zoom. “Our blanc de blancs style is based on aromatic freshness, but we wondered how we could guarantee that in the future.”Champagne is based on consistency, in a region where climate is anything but.
“For this concept, 2018 was a perfect year,” Panaiotis said. Champagne set new records that summer for sunshine and days over 30 degrees Celsius. “In 2018, the climate in Champagne was similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape 40 years ago,” he said, referring to the southern region known for powerful red wines. “Temperature, hours of sunshine, potential alcohol are data that show us climate change is real.
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