Climate change imperils coffee. A rescue plan is brewing in Vietnam.

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As climate change imperils the much-loved but vulnerable arabica coffee plant, Vietnam is going all in on robusta, which is more resilient and has higher yields than virtually anywhere else.

“Climate change has made many issues, mostly for the arabica-producing countries,” said Vanúsia Nogueira, executive director of the International Coffee Organization, an intergovernmental association of coffee-producing countries based in London.

Communities are “preparing,” said Toi Nguyen, a local farmer. “Because the future of coffee,” he added, “is here.” Arabica still has its faithful — even in Vietnam, specialty coffee shops largely serve it and many are proud to say theyserve arabica — but “more now, what people are realizing is they will need another option, in addition to the arabica, for the future,” said Nogueira, who is Brazilian.In Bao Loc, this effort has arrived at the stumpy feet of a native variety of robusta that locals call the “green dwarf.

 

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