Ready-to-wear, autumn-winter 2023/24: Young designers take centre stage

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France's Victor Weinsanto, Vincent Pressiat and Alice Vaillant encapsulate a new generation of boundless energy and talent; of fashion designers determined to disrupt the sartorial status quo. Not only do they embrace the latest couture innovations, they're also firmly plugged into the zeitgeist – a desire to create fashion that's more responsible, more daring and more free.

With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris.

At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.

 

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