The Inconvenient Truth About Tuscany’s Stellar Cabernet Franc

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Super Tuscans have long relied on Bordeaux varietals, but with climate change bearing down, the resilient Cab Franc is thriving in tough conditions.

Franc gets around in more ways than one. The parent of four of the other grapes used in Bordeaux, it is grown in just about every New World wine region for use in blends or as a single varietal. It’s also bottled on its own inwas primarily confined to the north, where its challenging ripening process often resulted in a sharp, green flavor profile and a less-than-favorable reputation.

Podere Forte’s owner Pasquale Forte is another strong proponent of the variety. He, too, had cultivated more Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot for blends, but over time has adjusted his Guardiavigna to a monovarietal bottling. “Cabernet Franc has always been better performing,” Forte says.

Cronin credits Tenuta di Arceno’s altitudes of 1,150 to almost 2,000 feet and its varied soils and microclimates for the “beautiful complexity” he can achieve in Arcanum. “In cooler years, the flavors tend to showcase notes of sweet mint and cypress, while warmer years emphasize fruit flavors,” he says. “It ripens at just the right time, neither too early nor too late, ensuring optimal harvesting conditions.

 

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