Climate change casts a shadow over Britain’s biggest food export

on the west coast of Scotland and it won’t be long before you spot them. Dotting the region’s lochs and bays, salmon farms are big business. Tourists and locals grumble that they spoil the views. But according to the Scottish government, theis worth more than £1bn annually and supports around 12,000 jobs. Last year salmon—almost all of it reared in Scotland—was Britain’s biggest food export, well ahead of cheddar and lamb.

Diners from South Korea to theSir James Maitland, the eccentric owner of a Victorian hatchery in Stirlingshire, was probably the first Scot to breed the fish in captivity. But the industry took off only in recent decades. Technology from Norway, where the business was pioneered, combined with investment from Unilever, a consumer-goods conglomerate, to yield Scotland’s first salmon harvest in 1971. Production has exploded.

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