Milan menswear seeks reassurance in nostalgia and artisanal craft, from Fendi to Dolce&Gabbana

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Amid ongoing wars, hardening political divides and accelerating climate change, Milan designers made a play for escapism on the second day of Milan Fashion Week, mostly menswear previews for Spring-Summer 2025. Many took inspiration from decades that now seem more reassuring, when the future brimmed with possibility.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 15, 2024. .Models wear creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 15, 2024. .A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 15, 2024. .

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created looks for the toniest Italian seaside destinations, from the Amalfi Coast to the Venetian Lido and Liguria’s Portofino. The designers said in notes they took inspiration from “Italy’s golden period,” of the 1950s, epitomized by Marcello Mastroianni.

The menswear silhouette by artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi spoke to a yesteryear when shirts-and-ties were de rigueur, but not only. The bygone staples were updated with oversized shirts sticking out beneath light-weight bombers, paired with straight trousers or Bermuda shorts. Garment architectures gave an inventive edge, in asymmetric knitwear that buttoned down the shoulder for a peek-a-boo effect, or sleeves that slashed open at the elbow to convert from long to short, warm to cool.

The runway show this season moved from the brand’s intimate showroom to a new 7,000-square-meter space that show notes say has been recognized for its energy and environmental design. Despite the change in locale, hundreds of screaming, eager K-pop fans managed the trek to greet artists like Stray Kids’ Bang Chan.MSGM brand founder Massimo Giorgetti woke up the fashion crowd with loud bursts of paintballs splattering colors on glass walls, his way of spreading positive energy.

 

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