Carlo Olivero digs on the spot where his 3-year-old dog Steel indicated the aroma of a prized white truffle, in Alba, Italy. Olivero has been hunting truffles for more than 40 years, and worries about climate change and the transition of wooded land to vineyards and orchards will impoverish future truffle production.
Alba, located in the northwestern region of Piedmont, has earned the moniker “white truffle capital of the world” for its particularly fragrant variety of truffle, its truffle fair each fall and its annual charity auction, which pushes prices of the tuber magnatum pico up into the stratosphere. “It has been a few years that we have been worrying about truffle production,” said Antonio Degiacomi, president of Italy’s national center for truffle studies. “We have had over the last three seasons one terrible year, one excellent season and one that is decent.”
“I told him, ‘The day you take all the oaks, only you will drink your wine,’” Olivero said. “Because the truffle and the Barolo are two formidable components. It is a system that works on the table, but needs to go together first in nature.” This year’s charity auction white truffle price — 12,000 euros for 100 grams — compared with a high price at this year’s fair of about 380 euros per 100 grams . The fair price can increase to as much as 750 euros per 100 grams in years of scarce production.
That included a 730-gram white truffle unearthed by Davide Curzietti on Saturday, the largest of the annual truffle fair to date. Judges certified the provenance of the behemoth tuber, which Curzietti sold immediately to a restaurant in Osaka for 3,800 euros .
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