Is the future of Italy tropical? Why Sicilian farmers are trading olives for papayas

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Climate change is transforming Sicily’s rolling hills into a tropical landscape. How it adapts could be a lesson for the rest of us.

Natale Torre tends to bananas growing in a greenhouse. Torre owns one of the biggest tropical plants nurseries in Italy. As southern regions like Sicily increasingly face extreme weather, hardier tropical plants are becoming more popular.The rolling hills of Sicily, once a patchwork of sun-dappled citrus groves and ancient olive trees, have long been the heart of Italy’s iconic agricultural landscape.

In Catania, experimental wheat crops are being cultivated and tested for their resilience to climate change. The Mixwheat project, a collaborative effort involving the University of Catania, is evaluating over 2,000 varieties of wheat to identify strains that can tolerate extreme temperatures, drought, and poor soil.

Entrepreneur Francesco Verri has established a network of small-scale growers specializing in lesser-known tropical fruits. His vision is to create a new “made in Sicily” exotic fruits brand that raises awareness about climate change among everyday consumers. He also collaborates with chefs to integrate tropical fruits into Sicily's rich local culinary traditions.

“It’s comparable to sustaining third-degree burns on 70 percent of our body. Such a condition would be fatal for a human being," explains Professor Christian Mulder of Catania University. The feijoa flower, a highly sought-after exotic fruit, has edible petals prized for their versatility in the kitchen, particularly cocktails.Giuseppe Saitta, a renowned chef from Messina who works in tandem with Verri, is similarly pushing the boundaries of culinary experimentation by using exotic fruits as key ingredients in traditional dishes. In a recent creation, he prepared a ratatouille using locally grown papaya and macadamia nuts sourced from nearby farmers.

The impact of these changes extends beyond agriculture into the social fabric of Sicilian communities.

 

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