I didn’t eat proper risotto till I was nearly 30. And now drought may take it off menus for everknow, I know.
How peak middle class to make mention of a risotto crisis; don’t most of us have enough on our plates already without getting worked up about the cost of posh rice to boot? But at the risk of impaling myself with my own privilege – there it goes, clean through my Toast linen apron like an expensive Japanese knife – I’m going to jump in anyway, truffle grater in hand (I’m joking, I don’t own a truffle grater). The bad news is that, and while I think this is a grave development for Italians, as for all Europeans, perhaps it’s a particular sadness for we British, who came a bit late to risotto, and have only just started truly to get the hang of it. The trouble has to do with the climate crisis. Risotto rice varieties such as arborio and carnaroli are grown in the Po valley, a floodplain in the north of Italy where the challenge for farmers used to be to keep the water away. But now everything’s topsy turv
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